Seaside in Spain

After a stressful month-long detour in San Francisco, we arrived in Barcelona a few days ago. Predicting that I’d be more exhausted than usual from the 20-hour journey (thanks to my recent medical misadventures), we didn’t spend our weekend exploring the city. Instead, we took the train 50 minutes southwest to the small town of Calafell, located on the coast of the Mediterranean. Our goal: to relax.

Calafell is not a must-see destination listed in guidebooks, nor does it have fancy attractions. However, its endless sandy beach and constant sunshine were exactly what I needed. Apparently Calafell is overflowing with European holidaymakers in the summer, but it was pleasantly sleepy when we visited.

Well, there was one other reason we went there. Jeremy has long been an expert at collecting frequent flyer miles and hotel points (as evidenced in this post). His skills paid off again. Because it’s low season on the Catalan coast, we scored a very affordable room at the modern-meets-historic Le Meridien Ra by cashing in a few Starwood points.

The Ra, as it turns out, has a unique history that seemed appropriate for my medical recovery. From the 1930s to 1950s, the original building served as a hospital and sanatorium for children and young adults suffering from various illnesses, including tuberculosis. Medical experts believed that patients could be cured by lounging in the sunshine and swimming in the healing saltwater of the Mediterranean. Sadly, it takes a bit more to treat TB.

But the idea that saltwater treatments were beneficial to the body did not lose its popularity. In fact, “thalasso therapy” at European spas is now widely available, with treatments ranging from simple dips in saltwater pools to complicated scrubs with marine algae.

We got to sample some of these options this weekend. Guests at the Meridien Ra receive complimentary access to the rooftop spa/pool complex, which includes an ice-cold dipping pool, a large heated saltwater pool, two saunas, a steam room and an “oxygen salon.” The main pool includes seven water features designed to massage different parts of the body, ranging from waterfalls that pound your neck and shoulders to underwater bubble jets. In true therapeutic style, guests can follow four clearly marked wellness circuits around the complex, moving from one watery station to another.

I had my doubts about the health benefits of these circuits, but they looked fun and were a good match for my energy levels. Jeremy, ever the good sport, agreed to go along. So, after spending our mornings at the beach and then lingering over multi-course Spanish lunches, each afternoon we donned the requisite swim caps and plunged into the world of thalasso therapy.

On our last day, we tackled the “invigorating” circuit, which included back-to-back stops in the cold water pool and the 140° F sauna, a skin-tingling challenge. At the end of the nearly 1-hour circuit, I felt like a wet, soggy noodle. Outside on the sun deck, I promptly fell asleep in a lounge chair, listening to the waves crashing in the distance. It was exactly what I needed.

On the Road Again

Willie Nelson is providing the perfect soundtrack for my day. Last Friday, two and a half weeks after surgery, my doctor cleared me to travel. So we’re heading to Europe – today! As the king of country sings in the ever popular classic, “I can’t wait to get on the road again.”

We plan to spend 2.5 months in Europe, starting in Spain. After exploring the Basque and Catalan regions for a few weeks, we’ll head to Italy to see family in early June. Then, we’ll take a ferry to Croatia and work our way southeast to Turkey, where we hope to spend most of July. We’ll return to the US in early August. Before going back to work, we want to play in our own backyard, hiking in some of California’s national parks.

Getting ready to go to Europe has been much easier than sorting out all the details of our first departure last September. Previously, we packed for a year on the road and took the bare basics for each season, which meant we had to edit our choices carefully. (Here’s how we did it.) This time, we’re only packing for one season, summer, so we’ve swapped out our long underwear and wool hats for extra shorts and t-shirts. It feels extravagant to have choices in our wardrobes.

However, there is one big difference in how I’m packing for the next leg of our trip. Because my doctor told me not to carry more than 10 pounds of weight until 6 weeks after surgery, I’ll be leaving my backpack at home. On principle, using a roller bag doesn’t feel right to me, but I’m happy to do so in order to heal fully. Jeremy will still bring his 60-liter pack, which gives us flexibility if we go on multi-day hikes in the future. (In that case, we’d leave the roller bag behind for a few days, filled with all the things we don’t need for hiking.)

Thank you for all of your kind comments and support throughout my five-week medical layover. We’re excited to start traveling again, and we plan to blog more frequently. Stay tuned!

Detour: Splenic Cyst Surgery

(This is the final post in a series by Kristin about health challenges while traveling.)

Forgive me, in advance, for going into embarrassing detail about a strange topic: my spleen. If you read our blog for travel ideas, feel free to skip this post entirely. Hopefully, we’ll return to exploring exotic locales soon! But if you’re interested in what I’ve learned about spleens, splenic cysts and laparoscopic surgery, read on.

Four weeks ago, we paused our grand world tour and reluctantly returned to San Francisco. We already knew I had an enormous, fluid-filled cyst (like a water balloon) on my spleen measuring 4″ x 4″ x 5″. It seemed to be the most likely cause of my abdominal and back pain, because it filled much of the space inside my left rib cage. We just weren’t sure what we should do about it.

Upon returning to California, we visited three physicians (a surgeon, a urologist, and our family doctor) who subjected me to numerous tests and examinations. The team quickly reached a verdict: my splenic cyst should be removed via abdominal surgery.

As I mentioned before, splenic cysts are incredibly rare. One cause of large splenic cysts, especially for patients with an “interesting” travel history like mine, is parasitic worms (like Echinococcus). There was a possibility that my enormous cyst was created by — and filled with — parasites. That idea still gives me nightmares!

Many exotic laboratory tests later, we were happy to learn that my abdomen was not crawling with worms. Instead, my doctors hypothesized that I’d either been born with the cyst or that my cyst had formed long ago after some kind of minor trauma. Either way, it had been growing slowly over many years, and my recent kidney infection may have accelerated the cyst’s growth, helping it reach its giant stature.


That big dark gray sphere on the right side of this CT image is the cyst. The three white ovals bordering it are my ribs. As you can see, the cyst was outgrowing its space!

My surgeon, Dr. Norton, was confident that he could remove the cyst laparoscopically, using 3 small incisions instead of traditional open surgery. He thought it was unlikely that he would need to remove my spleen, unless it started bleeding uncontrollably during the procedure.

There was just one catch: he’d never operated on a splenic cyst before.

This is not for lack of expertise. Dr. Norton is the chief of surgery at Stanford and has been performing abdominal surgery for more than 30 years. He’s considered one of the best in the field. I knew that my condition was rare, but until that moment, I hadn’t processed just how uncommon it really was.

Since I was a medical oddity, no one could tell me what I would experience after the surgery or how long recovery might take. Seeking answers, I obsessively researched splenic cysts and treatments online, reading every medical journal article I could find. This didn’t take long: only a handful of websites offered relevant information and I didn’t see any forums for patients with my condition. In fact, that’s the main reason I’m writing such a detailed post now! (And I’d be happy to answer questions about my experience for any other splenic cyst patients).

I found precisely one blogger who wrote about having a large splenic cyst — she dubbed it “Igor.” Inspired, I jokingly named mine “Quasi” after Quasimodo in Victor Hugo’s Hunchback of Notre Dame. “Quasi” gave me a entertaining way to discuss my upcoming surgery with friends. Though I tried to maintain a casual attitude, I was terrified. I’d never had surgery before, and thinking about the details made me so nervous I’d get nauseous.

On April 17, I had laparoscopic surgery that lasted 1½ hours. During that time, as is standard for this kind of abdominal procedure, my body was fully anesthetized and my lungs paralyzed, with a tube placed down my throat to keep my airway open. I had a urinary catheter and an IV in each arm, pumping me full of drugs and fluids.

For those interested in the gory details, here’s how the surgery worked. Dr. Norton made three small incisions in my abdomen: one in my belly button, one some six inches above that, and one at the base of my left rib cage (near the spleen). Each was 1″ or smaller. Through this triangle of incisions, he inserted numerous surgical tools, including a laparoscope (a high-tech video camera) and a laser. He also filled my abdominal cavity with carbon dioxide gas, inflating it like a balloon, to create space around my organs. From there, he cut into my spleen to reach the cyst and then carved a large hole in it, in a procedure known as “unroofing.” After suctioning the fluid out of the cyst, he used an argon laser to destroy the cyst’s inner wall to prevent it from refilling with fluid. Thankfully, my spleen stayed firmly in place.

Laparoscopic surgery is safer, faster, and easier to recover from than open surgery. But laparoscopic or not, abdominal surgery takes a major toll on your body. I spent two delirious nights in pain at the hospital. The worst of the pain came from an unexpected source: the CO2 gas that remained in my abdomen after the surgery, causing constant and severe abdominal spasms and cramps. I wasn’t expecting this, and there’s no easy solution: the body must simply absorb the gas over a period of days.

My doctor discharged me once I could accomplish a few simple tasks, like holding down food and managing my pain through pills instead of an IV drip. Nauseous, lightheaded and barely able to walk, I returned home. No one warned me I’d need full-time help for at least a week, or that I’d feel like I was progressing at a snail’s pace. I’m incredibly grateful I didn’t have to go through this alone. My helpful and unflappable mom flew across the country for my surgery; Jeremy, my amazing husband, proved to be an excellent nurse, chef, waiter, social secretary and cheerleader.

Our friends visited numerous times, bringing meals, flowers, cupcakes and ice cream. Their thoughtfulness and generosity cheered me up and — in a wonderful surprise — helped me recover faster. When friends were around, I laughed harder than I had in weeks, giving my lungs and abdominal muscles a workout. I pushed myself to sit up longer than I otherwise would have, even if it was painful. They helped me finally understand the Chilean saying that I’ve referenced before: “in sickness, there is health.”

It’s been two weeks since my surgery, and I’m feeling a little stronger each day. I’m going for short excursions now, walking slowly around the block or the grocery store. Each day gets a little easier.

So what’s next? We plan to catch up with our original travel itinerary, heading to Europe in a few weeks when I’m back to full health. I’m excited to return to our wandering life abroad, but I think I’ve had enough “medical tourism.” I hope to avoid seeing doctors for a very long time!